One of the clam bars that has become an empire unto itself is Lenny’s Clam Bar at 161-03 Cross Bay Boulevard, near 161st Avenue, in Howard Beach, Queens. Softshell clams are also common - known to generations of Brooklyn children as piss clams because of their ability to squirt skyward when tromped on at the beach - which are used for fried or steamer clams. Chowder clams are the generic term to refer to the largest specimens, which are chopped and used in stews. The core of the menu features clams of two varieties: Hardshell clams, or quahogs, are divided by size, with the smallest designated littlenecks, followed by topnecks and cherrystones. These places often began with a limited menu of raw and cooked mollusks that also included oysters and conch, but have expanded their menus to feature a broad range of mainly Italian seafood dishes over the years. While the number has diminished over the decades, a few - like Sheepshead Bay’s sainted Randazzo’s - persist. Transfer the clams to the oven and broil them for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the crumbs are golden brown.The maritime areas of New York City, Long Island, and the Jersey Shore have long been the site of clam bars strung along the shore like beads on a necklace. If you have any breadcrumbs left they can be frozen for up to 6 months. Then sprinkle each clam with 1 to 2 teaspoons of the bread crumbs - enough to cover. Using a small spoon, top each clam with about 1/2 teaspoon of the bacon mixture. Transfer the the clams (in their bottom shells) to a baking sheet. Remove the top shell of each clam and discard.

Add the clam juice and continue to cook until thick, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and swirl in 1 tablespoon of cold butter.

Add the shallots, red bell pepper, remaining garlic, and crushed red pepper, and cook for 2 minutes longer. In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, cook the bacon and proscuitto for 2 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine mesh sieve and set aside. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a bowl to cool. Place the lid on the pan, increase the heat to medium-high and cook the clams until they all open, 3 to 4 minutes. When hot, add 2 teaspoons the garlic, white wine, thyme sprigs and the clams. In a large, high sided sauté pan with a lid over medium heat add the remaining 1 tablespoon of the melted butter and olive oil. In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon of the melted butter, Parmesan, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and the pepper and set aside.

Casino clam bar